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服饰中的中华文化——中国古代服饰文化展文物赏析
发布时间:2021-06-07     作者:作者:木易   来源:中国文物报   分享到:

zhongguosuyou“yiguanwangguo”zhimeiyu,shuqiannianlaizhonghuafushiwenhuadefazhanlicheng,bujinzheshechugudaiwuzhiwenmingyujingshenwenmingdefazhanguiji,yegoulechuzhonghuaminzuyanmianbuduandeshenghuohuajuan。

jinri,youzhongguoguojiabowuguanzhubande“zhongguogudaifushiwenhuazhan”zaiguobozhanchu。zhanchuwenwujin130jian(tao),leixinghangaiyushiqi、guqi、taoyong、fuzhuang、jinyinpeishiheshuhuazuopindeng,bujinshengdongmiaohuilezhongguogudaifushishenmeiquxianghechuanzhechangjing,erqiexitongzhanshilezhongguogudaifushidefazhanlicheng,shenruchanshilefushisuochengzaideshehuiwenhuaneihan。benwenxiequbufenzhongdianwenwujinxingjieshao,yixiangduzhe。

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彩陶靴是新石器时代辛店文化 高11.4厘米 口径6.8厘米 底长14.3厘米 靴面厚5厘米 青海省博物馆藏

cijianxindianwenhuacaitaoxuecaizhiweijiashahongtao,kouweichi,xueneikong,xuetongweiyuanxing,xuebangyuxuedixianjiechuxiangneiaoqu,xuediqianjianhoufang。tongtishizihongsetaoyi,bingyiheicaihuizhijihexingtuanyijishuangxiantiaowen。xuetonghuiyouduichengshuangxianhuiwen,xuebangshishuangxiandaiwenhesanjiaowen。taoxuesuiranshiyizhongrongqi,danshitadezaoxingyingshidangshigudaixianminsuochuanxuedezhijiefanying。cixuedelishixingchengjiuzaiyutayiwanquantuolileyongzhengkuaishoupiguozaijiaoshangdeyuanshixiedezhuangtai。zheijiancaitaoxuezaiwoguoshangshushoucifaxian。

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组玉佩 战国 中国国家博物馆藏

zuyupeiweiguazaiyaojianshiyishangdeshiwu,suiranyechutuyumuzang,danyufumianshangdeyushijianxingzhiwanquanbutong,zuyupeidaduoshuyingshimuzhurenshengqianpeidaizhiwu。《liji·yuzao》youji:“guzhijunzibipeiyu”“junziwuguyubuqushen”。zaidangshishehuishenghuozhong,zuyupeishiguizushenfenzaifushishangdetixianzhiyi,shenfenyuegao,zuyupeiyuezhangyuefuza;shenfenjiaodizhe,peishijiujiandanerduanxiao。zheiyudangshiguizubiaobangdebutaiyeyouguanxi,shenfenyuegao,maibuyuexiao,zoudeyueman,yuexiandeqipaichuzhong,fengduyanran。

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武士俑 西汉 高48.5厘米 中国国家博物馆藏

yangjiawanxihancaihuibingmayongzhongdewushiyongyibanzhesanzhongyi,jineiyi、zhongyihewaiyi。waiyiduoweiduanshenyi,jiaoling,lingkoujiaodiluchuliyi,zhihuiyong、zhongjiwuguanyongheyibanshizuyizhegeyoubutong。ciliangyongyingweiyibanshizu,zuoyoushoushangjuzhiji,zuoshouxiachuiwodunzishi。liangyongtoudaiheseguan,neizhebaisegaohoulingduanru,zhongyiweibaiseduanru,waiyiweiwulingqujuheisezhanpao,jiezhaixiu,wujiayi,xiazheku。waiyizhanpaoxingweishangyixiashanglianzaiyiqi,yijinquxianerxiaxingchengquju。qujupaofuduotongshenjinzha,nanyiyaoxigedai,xiabaichenglabazhuang,xingbuluzu,danwushiweizhandouxuyao,zeduochuanduanyi,ciyuanyuhangaozuliubangmouchenshusuntong。

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有孔金带头 西汉 每块带板长13.3厘米 宽6厘米 扣舌长3.3厘米 徐州博物馆藏

gaizudaitouweijinkouqianbeiyaodaidezujian,youliangkuaizhangfangxingjindaibanheyimeijinchuanzhenzucheng,dandaitiyixiuhuaibucun。daibanzhengmianwenshicaiyongqianfudiao,zhutiweimengshouyaodouchangmian,zhutiwenshidezhoubianweigouhuiniaoshouwen。sibiantuqibiankuang,zhongbuyoulianggehengxiangshuanghuanniu,meikuaidaibandeneixiajiaoyouyilvejinsanjiaoxingdexiaokong,yibianchuanzhenchuanru。zheifujindaitoucongzaoxing、gongyidengfangmiankan,shimuqiansuojianhandaizuihuamei、xijiefangshizuixianjindedaitou,suiranyicaoyuanmengshoubodouwenweiticai,dancongzhuzaogongyi、xijiefangshikan,yingweizhongyuanneidizhipin。

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彩绘木雕女舞俑 汉 高15.8厘米 中国国家博物馆藏

muyongyibaifenzuodi,mohuitoufa、yanmeiheyifulunkuo,toubugaogaoshuqifaji,shangshenzheshensezhangxiushangyi,xiashenchuanqiansequn,shuangbeiqushenbiaoxianchuwudaozishi。diaokedaogongjianlian,jinbiaoxianchuwuzhededazhilunkuo,quenengxianshichuwudaodepianpiandongtai,qitoushangdefajichengxianchuhandaitese。

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戴鹖冠三彩俑唐 高96.5厘米 中国国家博物馆藏

ciwuguanliyushuyaotaizuoshang,meitoujinsuo,yanshenlingli。toudaiheguan,shenzhejiaolingkuanxiupao,waizhaoliangdangkai;shuangshoujiaowoyuxiongqian,paolingyuliangdangkaiqianpianshibaiseyou,paodibaise,qunyuanweibaisebaizhebian。gudaiwuguanpeidaiheguan,xiangzhengwuwangbusheng。beiweiwushiheguanshangdeheniaoqixiyuguanding,tangdaiheguanzebaguanerbianzuoliangzhiniaochixing,heniaozuozhanchifuchongdezishi,zaoxinggaoda,guanhouhaiyoubaoye,poweishengdong,zaoxingsique。

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中兴四将图 宋 纵27厘米 画心91厘米 中国国家博物馆藏

“zhongxingsijiang”zhisongshinanduguochengzhongdesiweizhangongzhuojuedejiangling,jutirenwushangyouchuru,juxianyoubangtisuoshi,sijiangyiciwei“liufuwangguangshi”“hanqiwangshizhong”“zhangxunwangjun”ji“yueewangfei”。huazhongsijiangzheyuanlingpaofu,huodaijinzi,huodaifutou,huodaipingze,huodaijunzhongbianmao,jiaozhexue,jieweiwenguanzhuangshu。sijianggeyouyiwuguanshicong,shenzhebianzhuang,bianzhuangwaijiacaixiuhanyao,cizhuangshuduojianyuqidan、nvzhenhuqi,yuzhongyuanwujiangchangfuzhongjiaoshaojian,yingweidangshinansongzhongyijunzhuangshu。

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陇西恭献王李贞像 明 画心纵197厘米 横155厘米 中国国家博物馆藏

lizhenweizhuyuanzhangjiejiecaoguozhanggongzhuzhifu,longxigongxianwangyishi。tuzhonglizhenzheyourenjiaolingkuanxiumianfu。shouchihubangongshouyuxiongqian,toudaijiuliumian,yaoqianweibixi,yaoxidadai,waipeiyudai,shenhouyoudashou,tuzhongkejianyupeichuiyutuibian,zuchuanyuntouchixi。

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孝亲曹国长公主像 清 横102.8厘米 纵185厘米 中国国家博物馆藏

zhufonv,mingtaizuzhuyuanzhangerjie,weimingchaokaiguojianglingyishilongxigongxianwanglizhenyuanpei。youyuzhufonvzaidamingliguozhiqianjiuyijingqushi,houbeizhuifengweicaoguozhanggongzhu,cixiangyingshihoudaigenjutazhanggongzhudeshenfenzhuimode。huazhongzhufonvtoudaizhaiguan,shenzhehongsedashan,shenqingsexiapei,xiazhuijinpeizhui。

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《皇朝礼器图》 清 中国国家博物馆藏

qianlongshisannian,qianlonghuangdimingyunlu、jiangpudengzuan《huangchaoliqitu》。tajishiyibumiaohuiqingdailiqidetupu,yeshiyibujizaiqingdaidianzhangzhiduleiqiwudezhengshu。《huangchaoliqitu》youduogebanben,guobosuozangweiqianlongnianjianneifucaihuiben,gongshibajuan,fenjiqi、yiqi、guanfu、leqi、lubu、wubeiliugebufen。


【womenzunzhongyuanchuang,yezhuzhongfenxiang。banquanyuanzuozhesuoyou,ruyouqinfannindequanyiqingjishilianxi,womenjiangdiyishijianshanchu。fenxiangneirongbudaibiaobenwangguandian,jingongcankao。】

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